Dramatic Context
Georgia Brown
Demonstrations | Technical Processes and Pro tips:
Postiche work with Sara,
Further Advice, beard construction:
-Naturally theres three or four colours in anyones hair
-Mimicking natural hair growth is very important, make sure the knotting direction is visibly accurate
-Bulk knotting or double knotting isnt necessary and unrealistic, this will look false
-Think about dressing the beard cutting it appropriately
-Postiche should always be seporate pieces i.e... Beard, moustache, sideburns all need to be seporate
-Do not knot too thick, not every hole needs to be knotted with a hair
-In HD the beard lace is hidden by being placed just underneath the natural hairlineh, or more hair is laid over the top of the lace
-For a false beard you wouldnt go any lower than the adams apple, this will cause complications in the application
-Always make sure the beard reaches the hairline, using a tailcomb to lift the sideburns for measurements
-The denseness will come from curling or dressing the beard
-Knotting one hair every fifth hole and fourth row is usually accurate.
Taylor, S. (2014). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 07 October.
Sculpting a Silicone Flat Piece,
Advice from Pete, tips and tricks:
-Once this process is practised you should be able to sculpt mould and apply a flat piece in an hour and a half
-Clay: lebeau touche...( oil based clay) Sulpher free sculpting material. (Always buy sulphur free when using silicone) Takes to detail and is very soft. Monster clay is a lot harder and therefore tougher to work with. Practising with various clays is preferable
-Lighter fluid is used to clean the clay or soften the clay, it is important to be careful when using the solvents as they dissolve fine detail or reduce it
-Wrinkle textures: each wrinkle will eventually cross over the next, crating an 'x' effect.. Carve in deeper wrinkles after.. carve in very lightly in different directions for different lines and textures
-Dusting talcing powder over the clay will show any detail.. Use this technique to check your progress before oversculpting
-Take impressions of peoples skin, wrinkles or photograph wrinkles of different ages for reference
-Preparing your silicone mould: for a clean-neat mould, buy a clay extruder. (Makins) from amazon. Extra discs can be bought for them, if making prosthetics regularly.
-The flashing- chanel is to stop the mould shrinking when using cabosil and prozade. Can also be used to handle your piece.
Frame Technique: for applying the prosthetic, see below images, More prep time. The cardboard ring around the flat piece makes it easier to handle and apply, used in industry if there are hundreds of flat pieces to be applied in a hurry.
-Bondo- ps composites. Clear and great for prosthetics and matching skin tones underneath. Instead of silicone. Takes a long time to dry- a lot of lead time means it could be inconvenient, must be prepped in advance! also needs to be dusted with talk due to its stickiness and imperfections will appear in the mould if any mistake is made,
Make-Up for mature skin with Laura,
Techniques, product knowledge and important knowledge:
- Duo fibre brushes are good to use because the white fibres hold and apply the product and the black- shorter fibres buff and blend the product into the skin
- Avoid high pigmented or shiny eyeshadows... A matte eyeshadow is flattering on a mature skin, you dont want to highlight this area with glitters. Use complimentary colours across the lid, similar to the models skin tone. Satin or matte textures are preferable and a shadow (chocolate brown) will sit under the eye area without looking too harsh. Plenty of mascara will lengthen the lashes and give a wide eyed appearance.
Cotterill, L. (2014). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 10 October.
- Cream products wont set and powder under the eyes, a minimal amount with a good blending brush will brighten the under eye area naturally
- Brow gel with colour is good for a model who doesnt like a heavy brow or isnt used to applying product in the brows.
- Contouring isnt necessary as such, mineralise powders are good for mature skin because they are so fine and plump the skin. A blusher with a high shine will plump the cheeks along side a cream highlighter which will add radiance and glow. Avoid sparkle and larger pigmented blushers - they will settle where you dont want them to.
- By lifting the skin area on the eyelid- applying product all over the lid and asking your model to look forward you can pencil in a new socket, creating a lifted eye. It is important not to contour a mature face, it makes the face appear hollow, it is about balancing the hues in the skin. Only contour slightly if the face is plump.
Tindall, P. (2014). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 14 October.
Flat Piece mould process;
Pete explaining measurement accuracy;
(1:1, equal amounts A:B):
- When pouring in the silicone it needs to be 5mm above the highest point of the sculpture
- You cannot cross contaminate your silicone, constantly throw stuff away and get fresh things out... i.e. cups and mixing sticks
- Whilst mixing you can apply a pigment but advise to go for clear because the flat piece itself will have added pigment
-The silicone cures quickly. However, silicone doesnt stick to anything but silicone once both parts are mixed. Therefore, If you havnt made enough you can always pour more silicone on top and it will stick
- Wearing gloves prevents using alcohols or oils to clean away any silicone from your hands.
- Pro gel 10 used equal parts A and B, meaning always use equal amounts A and B
- The softer the silicone the lower the number. (Shore A) is the softness of the rubber. A firmer rubber is useful for multiple moulds and prevents and spills.
Refronting & Cleaning a Lace Wig,
Sara Explains, Natural hairline:
- Use boiling water to straighten a synthetic wig
- Buy two rather than one (One to take apart and one as a base) for a natural finish. You can cut the second wig or the 'supply' wig and use it for knotting hair
- When you put your lace piece onto someones face or head it should always be clean
- You need an astringent to take away the glue grease
Hard front wig means there is no lace, they look like wigs rather than real hair. They are synthetic and you can paint onto them with grease paint or aqua colour. However, you cannot re-use them.
- Cotton wools with muslin cloths wrapped around (made up pads) for cleaning.
- To start: allow the lace wig to sit in acetone for a while to soak up any glue. Make sure to wear gloves (acetone resistant gloves)
- Acetone will melt synthetic hair, again- you cannot re-use a synthetic wig
- Place one pad underneath the lace and one directly above, then rub the lace in between to clean
Taylor, S. (2014). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 23 October.
Lifecasting using Alginate,
Wayne's Demo, Health and Safety Knowledge:
- Alginate doesnt stick to alginate and therefore if it starts to dry on your model or go claggy then stop and quickly mix up some more before it fully cures
- Another way of applying alginate to the face is to start with the nose, leaving the mouth free and asking your model to breathe out their nose creating two holes, then the nose doesnt have to be touched again and the airways are free (This requires experience in lifecasting and confidence in applying material quickly and professionally
- Constantly monitor your models nose and communicate throughout the process, never leave your model under the alginate alone incase they begin to panic or react to the material being used.
(Mouldife- silicone life cast is expensive but reduces your casting time by one week, used in industry)
-stuart bray uses baking powder to help the alginate stick together.
