GB
Wire Wefts, Sculpting and Making Tools Workshops, Equality and Diversity and Celebrity Culture
LECTURES & WORKSHOPS
WIRE WEFTS:
Taylor, S. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 08 January.
Different types of Wire Wefts:
Rectangular mesh: ‘Diamond’ mesh- used more for fantasy work.
Circle mesh: ‘honeycomb’ mesh- this could be used to ass ponytails or chignons etc.
Wire wefts are used to make added hair pieces, there are two ways of making a hairpiece: Knot a hairpiece or make it out of a weft. Wire wefts are a lot quicker than knotting and are stronger so therefore will hold the hair in place securely. For the base, netting should be used, as lace is not strong enough.
Below Left: Example of a wire weft. Below Right: A wire weft secured in my own hair. I found the hair extremely heavy and uncomfortable. However, it didnt move position for eight hours and kept the same structure.
Materials:
-Strong sewing thread
-Weaving silk- variation of colours (grey, brown, blonde), 3 strands plaited together and covered in beeswax which gives shine and keeps the hair in place
-Wire 0.7ml (copper coated, will not rust)
-Combs, Sew through holes into hairpiece to use as an anchor
-Pattern, the size dictates the weaving, find an object of roughly the same size and draw around it to save time. (8.5cm average size)
-Soft malleable block
-Weaving sticks and clamps
-Human hair, mats and clip to hold the hair
Remove the template from the block, starting from the inner circle, make the circle with the wig weft end and work outwards. Stitch wherever the weft meets itself on the template.
Sew each meeting point as you construct the shape, the outer circle should be the flat weft (this will appear neat with a flat edge).
Sew the hair combs to the inside of the chignon to secure the hairpiece to the head.
Template:
Apply cling film to a malleable block and cover it with tape, use a marker pen to draw on the outer circle. Now draw two inner circles and four petals inside of both, finally, cover again with more tape.
Notes Taken:
During weaving the roots can jump out of the silks, especially if you are keeping them very short.
To hold the weft you can use a hairdressing clip or make yourself a ‘jockey’ (because it rides the silks) Another aid can be beeswax, just run it along the weaving silks before weaving
Wefting Process:
-Have the clamps shoulder width apart and stick a nail in the left stick if you are right handed. The string would usually be weaving silk but string is used for practise, an arms length is required (40-50cm excess string to complete weft).
-Make two kitten toys (folded up paper or cardboard) not wider than the notches and make an incision with scissors. After, tie thread around the incision points- one for each string.
-Put one on the top knotch and one on the bottom, wrap string around so that they come towards you and back around.
-Draw strings around the left pole and tie the strings together by making two knots 2-3cm apart at the end of the string. The first knot hooks over the nail and the second is to weave against.
-Measure the wire to the required length, plus an excess of 50cm and cut with pliers.
-Wrap around the right stick, mimicking the string above and below, take it to the left stick and twist it around the nail twice to ensure it holds. Take mats, human hair and a clip to hold the hair.
Above: Demonstration of the process and to the right, my weft set up for the first attempt.
-Take the hair from the root end (6-8 hairs) and do a start knot to begin. Weave the first measurement (outside circumference) using a flat weft weave.
-Feed the root end through first (right hand side first) and leave a 2cm turn back. Move the hair along to he left knot and hold with a pin. Make sure the hair that is held in the clips is always against the stick. Start turning the stick when the clip isn’t touching the stick anymore.
-Now weave the rest of the length using ‘Wig Weft’ method. Finish with a finishing knot (leaving enough silk to tie the knot in).
-Cut the wire using pliers and remove it from the sticks, leaving an excess of 1-2cm. Be careful not to pull the wire as it is not attached. Fold the wire back onto itself flat against the weft (fold inward so that the wire weft will hold). Sew over the wire with thread to hold it in place and hide it.
Page 71. Baker, P. (2011). Wigs for Make-Up, Television and Film. Oxon, New York. Routledge 2-Park Square.
Weaving Process:
Weave the outside circumference first, always weave 2cm more of a flat weft than you think you need. Remember to always keep the weft as tight as possible the whole time.
-Pin the pattern to a soft block
-To determine how much weft is needed, measure with string. Take sewing thread; make a loop and knot at the bottom to push the pin through.
-Pin around the template line starting at the centre circle, as you follow the pattern around, take 2 measurements, one of the outer circle circumference and one of the whole length of the weaving. Mark the string with the measurements.
Below and right : Weft Attempt:
I found the wire weft process very difficult and would need a lot of practise in the field if I where to use the technique in a future project. The technique itself wasn’t difficult, remembering each stage without making a mistake seemed to be the problem and I had to research how to set up the tools numerous times after tying the string around the poles in the wrong directions and over complicating the process for myself. I will not need to use the technique in this unit. However, I think it will benefit me in level 6 of study and I think a weft can finish a make-up look to a high standard, the two work collaboratively together.
Continued:
-Cutting off some metal epoxy putty and filling in both ends of the cut piping will secure any wire inside. The locking wire is easily bendable and should warp into a desired rake or loop easily before securing it in place with the metal putty. Once its in place only small amount of putty is needed to cover over the ends. Dental wire is effective and durable, it will not bend or snap and makes a great small loop tool.
-Silicone rubber can be purchased to personalise your tools but is not necessary and can be expensive. Guitar strings are also great for small rake tools and smoothing the surface of your sculpt.
MAKING TOOLS:
Humphrey, W. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 04 February.
Page 70. Baker, P. (2011). Wigs for Make-Up, Television and Film. Oxon, New York. Routledge 2-Park Square.
PATSY BAKER
Below: Page 79 and 80. Baker, P. (2011). Wigs for Make-Up, Television and Film. Oxon, New York. Routledge 2-Park Square.
Making a Diamond Mesh Chignon:
A unique feature of this hairpiece is that the middle weaving string is replaced by fine wire. This gives strength to the weft, enabling it to be made into various shapes. The minimum length of the required weft for postiche is 100cm.
PRO TIPS: The length of the string that you use to complete the design will give you the required length of weft.
Switches:
A switch is a tail of hair mounted on a thin cord. It is sewn in this way to give the illusion that the hair used is longer than it actually is.
Switches and Weft types:
Switches are classified according to the number of stems:
-One stem switch- ponytail
-Two stem switch- coiled chignon
-Three stem switch- Plait
Fly weft: Woven on three silks- Base, and once-in weaving forms the bulk (body) of thickness in most wefts.
Twice in weaving: woven using 10-20 hairs at a time on three silks. Covers the distance more quickly than a flat weft ans is used for 'diamond mesh' clusters (wefted wigs and crows theatrical wigs)
Below: Baker, P. (2011). Wigs for Make-Up, Television and Film. Oxon, New York. Routledge 2-Park Square.
PRO TIPS:
-Repetitively twist and tighten a pipe cutter around a thin metal pipe, twist until it cuts through.
-Bend some stainless steel locking wire in half and twist it at one end. Cut the other end and secure it inside of a screwdriver tip. Ensure the wire is fixed in and turn on the screwdriver, you should see the wire twist around itself and create a base for a rake tool. If you do not have a screwdriver to hand then you can twist the wire by clamping the end with pliers and begin twisting, securing the other end.
First Attempt: Personal Tools:
Ends: Block pins (cutting off the heads), stainless steel locking wire, garden wire and corset wire (wire bones cut from a corset)
Structure: Metal putty and thin copper piping.
I combined the materials to create my own wrinkle and rake tools inspired by technician Wayne Humphrey. The tools work fine but they could look neater. When I re-make them I will use the glue suggested insteal of the metal putty and I will also use a screw driver to create a professiona looking high standard rake tool.
SCULPTING WORKSHOP:
Humphrey, W. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 11 February.
Compact foil down really tight and shape it to the general size youd like your sculpt to be
Clays:
Sulphur free monster clay- £23 and isnt sticky, sulphur free. Can silicone and cast straight onto it.
Wed clay, has glistering in it and it will not dry out.
Supersculpey, polymer clay, pigment and flock can be added to this clay. It can be smoothed with ipa or lighter fluid. Teeth can be sculpted and then once hardened in the oven you can transfer them over to your sculpture and fix them in, ready for casting.
Process:
Start by estimating your primart forms. Establish where the shapes will be by roughing in the clay, anatomically correct but working loosely.
Secondly: refine the shape using wire wrapped loop tools. If you rake and refine in the direction you want the wrinkles to go, establishing the direction theyd naturally go, the sculpting process will become a lot easier for you.
Change rakes depending on the coarseness you want against the material and begin shaping it out. Ie the fibres of the muscles etc.
Pro tip: sculpt both sides at the same time to avoid your sculpt looking uneven
Pro tip: using a long sharp tool will work effectively for wrinkles, they will find their way on the sculpt.
Naptha: takes down the detail harshly
IPA: gently takes the surface down
Mixing the two will create an effective solvent.
The glass eye company - glass eyes.
Mac wax mould release
Continued:
-Reestablish wrinkles with a stipple spone at different grades. Great for skin texture and creating textures.
-Thick plastic- freezer bags are necessary for adding in finer wrinkles - lay it over the surface to lessen the impact of your tool
-Use wrinkle tools and follow the form of your sculpt, work directionally
-You can make up anatomy for fantasy but it must make sense ie jawbone, skull, muscle groups.
-Pores follow direction and arent completely round. Create and use a tiny loop tool for pore texture. Then using a brush dipped in solvent brush the opposite way, this will brush material back into the pores and takes them down. The surface will be realistic.
What Is Equality? Equality act 2010:
University of Edinburgh. (2013) What are equality and diversity? Article. [online]. Available from: http://www.ed.ac.uk/schools-departments/equality-diversity/about/equality-diversity. [Accessed 22 February 2015]
Historic Discrimination:
G h elliot was known as a 'minstrel' common in the late 19th and early 20th century. Women were of a minority and vesta tilley (woman) dressed as a man to enable her to perform successfully.
Silent Film
Stanford white murder, confirmrd the fact that acting wasnt a profession for a woman to progress in. Dangerous environment for a woman enabling men to desire and sleaze over them. Http://www.nwhm.org
Golden age of hollywood: Judie garland, Marlyn dietry, Maralyn monroe, Jimmy stuart
-Between 1930-60 very few roles for black actors, other than for servants. Women were still portrayed as wives and girlfriends.
-1976 first female anchor on a network news program. Barbara Walters:
-Programmes in the 60s and 70s would today be deemed as racist and wouldnt be seen.
-Late 1970s popular tv show comedy. Bernard manning. Comedian
Above left: TVLegends. (2009). Barbara Walters on being the first female network news anchor: she was co-anchor from 1976-1978.... [online]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfdXLlwI9C8. [Accessed 22 Februry 2015].
Above left: Biffa548. (2008). Bernard Manning Talking About Hitchikers, Blacks & Dunkirk. [online]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbldMCfjwq4. [Accessed 22 Februry 2015].
Fashion and editorial:
Iman supermodel watched runways and joined with naomi campbell to find more black models. Naomi campbell was the first black model to appear on the front cover of french vogue as late as 1987 and the size 0 debate still looms large with many.
Commercials: Manufactures use actors to sell their products.
Discrimination and Insulting: Always Campagn:
‘Equality is ensuring individuals or groups of individuals are treated fairly and equally and no less favourably, specific to their needs, including areas of race, gender, disability, religion or belief, sexual orientation and age’
Bullying, harassment or victimization are also considered as equality and diversity issues.
Diversity aims to recognise, respect and value peoples differences to contribute and realise their full potential by promoting an inclusive culture for all.
Always. (2014). Always: LikeAGirl. [online]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjJQBjWYDTs. [Accessed 22 Februry 2015].
When did something ‘Like a girl’ become an insult?
Do you think you just insulted your sister? No, I mean yes insulted girls but not my sister.
It sounds like a bad thing, it sounds like your trying to humiliate someone.
What does it mean to you when I say run like a girl? ‘It means run fast as you can’
A girls confidence plummets during puberty. (Brand ‘always’ want to change that) Between the vulnerable ages of 10-12. During that time they are already trying o figure themselves out, they think there a strong person, its like telling them they are weak.
If someone else says running like a girl etc is a problem then ignore them, your doing it right. I wake up in the morning like a girl because I am a girl and its not something I should be ashamed of, keep doing it.
Carolyne, H. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 21 February.
EQUALITY AND DIVERSITY :
EQUALITY: THE WOMEN
Carolyne, H. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 21 February.
Notes taken from Lecture:
How does the film explore contemporary issues of female empowerment, body issues and self esteem? Food reference throughout, food jokes, obsessive behaviours with being skinny or fat. Self esteem: Mary main actress, her husband is having an affair. She dresses reserved and her attire doesn’t shape her body, insinuates she is beneath him socially.
What does the notion on reinventing oneself symbolise within the film? Continuous obsession throughout the film about food and diet, promoting a healthy lifestyle and slim physique, which seems to be an important factor in modern culture.
Focus on the representation of the female relationships- motherhood, friendship and behaviours? Vulnerable and naive towards relationships and men. Transcending communication between two women. To change your identity slightly will change how you feel inside and opens new beginnings.
How do the locations/ activities/ job roles within the film explore the notion of success for women in modern society? Even though the women are in a higher empowerment, there are references throughout insinuating that men are above the women with the highest job roles in the film. Friends are smartly dressed in expensive garments, showing their success in their attire. The film touches upon the struggles women go through to keep/ stay within society’s hierarchy in empowerment.
CELEBRITY CULTURE
Taylor, S. (2014). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 09 December.
-Pop music is too sexual in modern culture, sexualised music videos
-POP, SEX, VIDEOTAPE.
- Incredibly explicit, dilemma
Entertainment in the form of pornography, pop culture mirrors society and exaggerates it, very offensive material. The material shows a decline in moral standards, in society. Music artists are influential and push the boundaries in modern culture, an uncontrollable reality.
-Terri Richardson- Controversial fashion photographer (shock and offend). Conform to your own sensibilities; responding to a market.
-Recreational media, publishing, negative and toxic.
-Images and controversy surrounding the- Regard and admiration showing absolute freedom?
Above: BeyonceVevo. (2014). Beyoncé - Partition (Explicit Video). [online]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ12_E5R3qc. [Accessed 25 Februry 2015].
A prime example of the excplicity in music videos is Beyonce’s Partition video. She is shown wearing only her underwear and dancing provocatively. She looks extremely ‘sexy’ and the whole video promotes and a repressed desire in a woman. She is a global icon and most women/ young girls idolize her, therefore this video is deemed innapropriate for a young growing girl and a womens self esteem.