MIRROR IMAGE
ONES ALTER EGO OR HIGHER SELF
FASHION EDITORIAL
INTERPRETING THE TREATMENT- CONCEPT AND CONTEXT
TV artist:
- Celebrity red carpet, Drama, live entertainment, personal MUA to an artist, commercial, Awards ceremony’s, Music shows.
Films:
- SFX< Shorts.
Fashion:
- Fashion commercial, fashion editorial, beauty editorial, advertising, celebrity, kids, runway shows, fashion weeks, global artist director.
Catalogue:
- Beauty based, fashion related. Secure job all year round.
Music Promos:
- Long hours, well payed, exciting, very separate industry. You would want to get signed.
Theatre:
- You would want to tour if you were looking to make money from theatre, long days.
Hair stylist only
Body Art
Bridal Make-up artist/ Proms:
Mortuary Make-up Artist:
- Clinical make-up artiat dealing with burns victims and people with other devastating injuries, stable job, employed by the NHS.
Make-up Tutor:
- What is your voice as a make up artist.
THE PLANNING BEFORE SHOOT DAY:
-Conversation in writing or production meeting to talk about the brief
-Working out day rates, if you have more than one model and more than two looks an assistand is required. Your day rate and assistant day rate is then sent to your client for approval.
-Visuals sketches, moodboards, references pulled together for approval to directors and clients your interpretation for the brief.
-Received from stylist/ concept boards from DOP, you send make up designs, do they fit together and work collectively as a whole?
-Model Castings: You will see past the glamour and the exterior of the model which the client doesn’t see, you have to put the model in context and pick out features that work for your shoot.
TIMINGS REQUIRED FROM YOU:
-Do the models need to be ready and on set together, you explain how long it will take and what time you will need to start, then the short list is given out
-Call sheet emailed the night before
-If you are shooting on location then check the facilities, are there sockets for electrical Equipment etc.
-Check the day rates in your area, do not underestimate yourself or the money, clients will not take you seriously. in Manchester the going day rate is around 350 a day, in London it is a lot more.
Behind the scenes is always a show in itself, you’re a psychiatrist, sometimes you’re a hair stylist. Your helping the photographer and you’ll do whatever it takes to get the job done. Our styling crew have a lot of pressure on so she has to do half of the models in the morning and again in the afternoon, the pressure is on as we have a tight schedule. Its her job to take what the stylist has provided and create something on the face that not only correlates it but compliments it. As a photographer I want to have an image I don’t want to do much retouching to, the make-up artist must do something to the model to inspire her and make her feel confident for the shoot. Working with lighting is important technically for the shoot too. Make-up people need to know what the stylist loves, collaborate collectively. You work with a designer and he has a vision, you have been brought in to create his vision. In editorial, everyone is working to publish an image.
Below images and text: The Fashion Shoot Experience, episode 3: The Makeup Artist (2013). Framed Show. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxUYSc3E1g8 (Accessed: 22 March 2015).
As a make-up artist it is my job to maintain what is represented in this season, we have collections, colours and styles for the season. If everything looks dated then how can we publish that?
To know exactly what is expected of you, the work is long, usually 5am starts to the day with four different models to take care of.
PRO TIPS: Stay on top of current trends, this is very important in the fashion industry and your portfolio of work should always reflect this. Above is a true fashion shoot experience and the make up artist explains that you have to work hard to get what you want. Working for free is and should always be an option if it is the right work for your portfolio and taking peoples advice can sometimes backfire. If the costume/ garment and the eyes are bold then the lips should ususlly be neutral and again, if the lips are over drawn and exaggerated then the eyes should often be neutral in depth and colour. See the images above, both examples of the technique which works collactively with the elaborate hair styles and head dresses.
PROMOSHOOT TREATMENT
TITLE: CRUEL BRITANNIA: THE CUTTING EDGE OF BRITISH HORROR
CONCEPT:
Open to a derelict, grand building, strange sounds begin to echo, as Britannia stalks its corridors. Quick flashes of her picking up gown, and beginning to wear it, all seen in tight, abstract, shallow focus. The strange sounds and dialogue continue to echo through the building become louder and more ominous.
Quick flashes of her hands gripping the trident, its prongs scraping the floors or walls, as well as quick reflections and shadows of Britannia with out revealing her. A third empty room, the noise has now become almost unbearable, with screams and sounds of terror bouncing around the walls. Flashes of the shield, the dress, her hair. The noise and images crescendo to reveal…
Britannia in her classic pose, proud, strong and British.
Below Text: Dayton, J. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 06 March.
MOOD BOARD
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7 is an editorial image by Philippe Salomon, the photograph is deliberately horizontal and this works effectively with the large up do which is sleek and yet perfectly rounded. The quality of the hairstyling is at its highest and the style has been executed and I think that Photoshop has been used to perfect the edges, taking away any stray hairs. However, the hairstyle is large and a statement in itself and will inspire my design choice for the make up application.
Along side using figure seven as inspiration for the hairstyling, I will use reference from figure nine where the hair is directed on top of the models head. I like the use of fabric to distort the hair, however, my final image will be photographed against a black background and I would like the make up to look clean and sharp. This will work collectively with a sleek up do, similar to figure seven. Figure eight is simple but dictates a clear message and the make up is put into context with the surroundings, this could reflect torture or suicide and fits within the mood board for cruel Britannia.
Figure 7
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure four was chosen because the model is wearing a British military jacket and looks distressed. Her make up is smudged and the image as an overall tells a story. Her hair has been deliberately backcombed to look messy and I like how both the hair and make up give an insight to the scene, almost like a screenshot of a movie take.
Figure five is the most striking to me, the eyemake up is similar to the image above, however, the splatter effect looks similar to paint, rather than pigments. Water based paints could be used to create the look with added matte shadow on top to take away any shine. The fading transition on the lips looks bold, fierce and high fashion and I like the vibrancy in the red. I will use both black and red within my make-up to create a look which has been inspired by this make up.
Figure six was chosen for both the hair and the make up/ bodypainting which both look visually stunning together. The body paint looks as though it could have been Photoshopped up the neck and the glitter could have been sprayed on but equally could have been applied freehand or with an airbrush. I like how the use of glitter isnt overpowering and it simply highlights the models natural outline. The hair looks like dreadlocks or cornrows, twisted up into a crown like up-do and this could work with the make-up I will be creating, based on the cruel Britannia treatment.
Above images: The Fashion Shoot Experience, episode 3: The Makeup Artist (2013). Framed Show. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxUYSc3E1g8 (Accessed: 22 March 2015).
The above image was chosen because the black pigment has been used in its most natural form, without blending. The pigment looks as though it has been dropped and patted over the eyelid and left to spill underneath, leaving a splatter effect across the surrounding area. There is darkness about the image, which reflects pain, and I will use this as a reference for the make-up application.
The image to the left is striking and beautiful, yet it looks as though the make up is reflecting anger or the artist is trying to gain a shock reaction from onlookers. Photoshop could have been used to create the effect but I like the vibrancy in the red. The make up will have splashes of red throughout and I will aim to keep it very pigmented. The use of false eyelashes works effectively and draws attention to the eye area and because the lips are painted to blend into the models natural skin tone, again your focus is drawn solely to the eyes.
The use of colour to contour the face drew my attention to the above image, although red is used excessively, it has been used to create layers and the llusion is highly contoured cheekbones. The colours used aren’t typically natural for contouring and deliberate.
The heavy paint across the nose and forehead looks like a representation of blood and the unkempt hairstyle compliments the painted look. The model almost looks 2D and the image is surreal.
A series of at least six poses depicting Emily Booth as a confident, strong, beautiful and determined lady Britannia with a horror twist. The imagery must convey true Britishness with a bloody/ gory/ dark edge. (At this point I’m unsure of whether to use blood or not- the background and Emily may be enough to convey ‘Horror Channel’)
Emily will be dressed in white-ish robes, wide metallic belt and high shoes clasping a trident and shield. The outfit will have a Vivien Westwood feel- clenched in waist, full and gathered long regal skirt and corset. Her make-up will be bold and beautiful with her hair high and flowing to symbolise the crown.
To convey the horror aspect, for some pictures her robes may either be dripping in blood or she will be stood in a puddle of blood. This is to be decided.
Some shots may be with a British Bulldog instead of a trident or shield. Whichever photographer we use, their input will be invaluable in terms of the art direction and effects.
PHOTOSHOOT TREATMENT
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For the final make up I incorporated all of the above images for design inspiration and the result was a vibrant and contrasted fashion editorial look. For the eyes I used a red matte shadow all over the lid and applied more colour in the creases for added intensity in the pigment shade. I then used a black water based face/ body paint (AQUA- KRYOLAN) to pat on colour on the centres of the lids, I wanted the colour to be very contrasted and shadow alone wasn’t showing as black as I had liked. I used a black shadow to blend the colour gradient, I wanted the lid to have gradually fade into the red colour. Red grease paint from SCREENFACE was used underneath the eyes, central to the lower lids, to create a soreness and aggravation to the area. And finally, thick, exaggerated eyelashed were applied on the upper lashes.
The skin was made to look luminous with MAC Natural Radiance Base in Radiant Yellow and then I combined a MAC ‘sculpt foundation’ in NC15 and Bobbi Brown’s ‘Hydration Foundation in light’ to match the models skin tone. Both foundations are light on the skin and complimented her natural skin texture. AnastasiaBeverlyHills contour palette was used around the cheekbones, temples/ forehead, and a mix of red shadows from CROWN palette used to sculpt and draw attention to the cheekbones. For the lips I wanted them to look blood stained and glossy within the red areas and used a matte red lip liner to define the shape, a black water based paint to create the blood stained effect and a red dazzle glass by MAC to highlight the drawn areas.
FINAL IMAGES
Figure 1:
Photo shoots (2015). Pinterest. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/123849058479040099/ (Accessed: 28 March 2015).
Figure 2
cruel britania (2015). Pinterest. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/471892867181846308/ (Accessed: 28 March 2015).
Figure 3: MagicBeans (no date) Red Splatter Makeup - makeup Picture, Stuffpoint. Available at: http://stuffpoint.com/makeup/image/37255/red-splatter-makeup-picture/ (Accessed: 28 March 2015).
Figure 4:
It, W. H. (2014) Tim Walker Photography. We Heart It. Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/12368988 (Accessed: 30 March 2015).
Figure 5:
Schild, C. (no date) http://chris-schild.com/. Available at: http://chris-schild.com/ (Accessed: 28 March 2015).
Figure 6:
Kerlo, P. (no date) zeroing: philippe kerlo. Available at: http://cosascool.tumblr.com/post/10564423594/zeroing-philippe-kerlo (Accessed: 30 March 2015).
Figure 7:
Salamon, P. (2015) cruel britania. Pinterest. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/471892867181846471/ (Accessed: 17 March 2015).
Figure 8:
In The Red - Print Spray Paint Blood Streak White Surreal Face Girl Weird Portrait Photo Art Surreal Hand Tipped Creepy(no date). Etsy. Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/84063337/in-the-red-free-shipping-print-spray?ref=tre-2725154124-7 (Accessed: 20 March 2015).
Figure 9:
Eversfield, D. (no date) ‘British Hairdresser of the Year Nominees: Hooker & Young’. HJi. Available at: http://www.hji.co.uk/events/british-hairdressing-awards/nominees14-hooker-young/ (Accessed: 30 March 2015).
After reading the treatment over, I could have added edible blood inside of the models mouth and have it spilling over her painted lips. Rather than a slick, high hairstyle, which I chose to style, I could have created a more eccentric style, similar to the images on the mood board above, to visually symbolise the crown. Overall, I am pleased with the look and if I where to re-create it I would change those two elements and have thick blood dripping slowly from the models lips.
Below Text: Dayton, J. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 06 March.
Below Text: Dayton, J. (2015). BA Hons Make-up for Media and Performance. Arts University Bournemouth. 06 March.